Ask any traveller what dish they are most curious — and most nervous — about trying in Cusco, and the answer is usually the same: cuy, the roast guinea pig. Here is what it actually is, why it matters so much in the Andes, and how to try it well.
What is cuy?
Cuy (pronounced “kwee”, from the sound the animal makes) is guinea pig, raised in the Andes as food for thousands of years — long before the Inca Empire. It has never been a pet here: it is high-quality protein suited to high-altitude life, traditionally raised in the family kitchen and reserved for festivals, harvests and honoured guests.
A dish painted into the cathedral
Cuy is so woven into Andean identity that it made it into sacred art. Inside Cusco Cathedral — a few steps from our tables on the Plaza de Armas — hangs Marcos Zapata’s famous 18th-century painting of the Last Supper, in which Christ and the apostles sit before a platter of roast cuy. Colonial painters translated the holiest of meals into the food Andean people considered worthy of it.
How it is served
The classic preparation in Cusco is cuy al horno: the whole animal seasoned with local herbs (often huacatay, Andean black mint), roasted until the skin turns amber and crackling-crisp, and presented entire — head included — before being portioned. The presentation is part of the ritual; cameras usually come out first.
What does it taste like?
Somewhere between rabbit and the darkest cut of poultry: lean, slightly gamey, with rich crisp skin as the prize. There is not much meat per animal, which is why it has always been festival food rather than daily fare.
Tips for first-timers
- Order ahead when you can. A proper cuy al horno is roasted to order and takes time — mention it when you book and ask about preparation time.
- Come hungry, share it. It is commonly ordered for the table alongside other dishes.
- Eat it the local way. Nobody in Cusco judges you for picking up a piece with your hands; the crisp skin rewards it.
- Pair it Andean. A glass of Peruvian malbec or a chilcano de pisco stands up to the richness.
Where to try cuy in Cusco
INKAGRILL has served cuy al horno to curious travellers and homesick cusqueños since 1998, facing the Plaza de Armas at Portal de Panes 115 — open every day from 8:00 am to 10:00 pm. If you are still deciding, start with our guide to 12 dishes you should try in Cusco.